Kenji is the former culinary director for Serious Eats and a current culinary consultant for the site. He is also a New York Times food columnist and the author of The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science.
New York pizza is my favorite style of pizza. Sure, I love me a neo-Neapolitan, sit-down-with-a-fork-and-knife pizza on occasion, and grilled pizzas are fantastic in the summer. Even chewy, Roman-style pizza bianca has its place. But the pizza I find myself most often craving is of the simple, by-the-slice, medium-thin, crusty, and lightly chewy style.
Luckily for us, it's also the variety that seems most easily adaptable to the home kitchen. Unlike, say, Neapolitan pies, which require wood-burning, 1000°F (538°C) ovens (or at the very least areasonable workaround), the modern* New York pie is baked in a gas oven that doesn't often go north of 500 to 550°F (260 to 288°C) or so—a temperature range not out of the pale of even the most bog-standard home oven fitted with a pizza stone.
New York Style Thin Crust Pizza Recipe
*I say modern because traditional New York pies are cooked in coal ovens, but the vast majority of corner-slice joints these days use gas, even the best ones.
First of all, it's the sauce. It's an emphatically tomato-ey sauce with a balanced sweetness and acidity and the barest hint of herbs and alliums. I've alreadytackled this sauce, and the secret is to use mix of butter and olive oil, whole tomatoes, dried oregano, a couple of halved onions, and a slow simmer on the stovetop.
mozzarella—the kind you can get sliced on a meatball sub or wrapped in cryovac blocks near the milk. It's applied sparingly so that it melts into a loose matrix that mingles with the sauce underneath, browning ever so slightly in the heat of the oven. The top of a New York-style pie should look mottled with red, white, and brown—definitely
Easy Nyc Pizza Dough Recipe
With a couple pies under your belt, you'll quickly discover two things about the cheese: it must be full-fat mozzarella (the part-skim or low-fat stuff just doesn't stretch right), and you must grate it yourself. No matter how much you are tempted, do not buy pre-shredded cheese.
Shredded cheese is coated with a dusting of starch intended to keep it from clumping. What it ends up doing is preventing it from melting properly. Your cheese will not acquire the requisite goo-factor. I've found that the best way to get good cheese for pizza at the supermarket is to go to the deli counter and ask them to cut you a pound or so straight off the slicing block in one chunk. Grated on the large holes of a box grater, it's perfect for the job.
Here's a problem I used to have: the cheese would over-brown and burn before the crust was done cooking. This happen to anyone else? I don't know if it's because professional pizza ovens have different convection patterns or some other sort of thermodynamic oddities going on, but the only solution I've found is to grate the cheese onto a plate, then pop it in the freezer for 15 minutes before applying it. This slows down its cooking just enough so that the crust can catch up before the cheese starts to burn.
Gluten Free Pizza (new York Style)
The final factor that makes a great New York pizza—and this is the real key—is the crust. This is what separates the men from the boys. The New York slices from the Sbarros. The true Ray's from the hordes of imitators.**
**In New York, there are a half dozen or so Famous Original Ray's pizzas, all of them unrelated, and few of them any good. Prince Street Ray's is the original, and the 6th Avenue Ray's is the best.
Thicker than a Neapolitan crust but thinner than a pan pizza, a New York crust starts with a crisp, well-browned bottom layer about 2 millimeters thick. It must be sturdy enough that a single slice slightly bent lengthwise down the center will cantilever out straight under its own support, not requiring the eater to prop the tip with a second hand.
Best New York Style Pizza Recipe
There's nothing worse than walking out on the street with a slice, having the tip sag down, and the cheese slip off into a greasy puddle on the sidewalk. Even thinking about it makes my eyes well up.
After the initial crispness, the next 3 to 4 millimeters are devoted to a thin layer of soft, slightly chewy, and tender cooked dough. This layer must be as flavorful as the best bread with a savory, wheaty, and complex aroma. Never floury, never bland, the crust is absolutely
just a support mechanism for the cheese and sauce on top. It's this layer that gives the slice its distinctive chew. You've got to pull slightly with your teeth to separate a bite from the rest of the slice. It should
The Best New York Pizza Recipe Outside Of Ny
break off with no effort. If that's what you're after, you're better off ordering a Domino's thin crust with its matzoh-like base.
The very top 1 to 2 millimeters of crust—the bit in closest contact with the sauce and cheese—should be slick and nearly doughy, though it shouldn't taste raw. This crust-to-sauce interface is one of my favorite parts of the pizza, and should not be taken lightly.
Finally, we get to the raised outer crust known by pizza snobs as cornicione, or colloquially as the bones. Unlike the poofy, leopard-spotted edge of a Neapolitan, a New York pie has a crust that's only slightly raised. The pie as a whole goes from thicker at the edges towards thinner in the center, an artifact of the toss-and-stretch method favored by most piemen. The crust should be relatively evenly browned, with a couple charred bubbles here and there, and an open bread-like structure, though again, not as outright airy as a Neapolitan crust.
How To Pizza: A New York Style Pizza Recipe With Extraneous Information
, which if you don't already own, you should. His method is to mix together the flour, yeast, salt, sugar, olive oil, and warm water in the bowl of a stand mixer, knead it slowly for a couple minutes, then allow it to rest for a few minutes in a step called anautolyse. Autolysis allows time for flour to absorb water, and for the gluten-forming proteins to shorten themselves through enzymatic action, allowing them to be more easily aligned and stretched with subsequent mixing.
The dough is then kneaded again until enough gluten is developed to pass thewindowpane test, allowed to rise overnight in the refrigerator, then shaped, proofed, rolled, and baked.
The results are pretty good. Texture-wise, the crust is spot on. It's the flavor that's always seemed lacking to me. It's not bad per se, nor underseasoned, just a little...
Recipe: New York–style Pizza
It was only recently when I was perusing On Food and Cooking by HaroldMcGeethat I came up with a theory as to why. Here's what he has to say on the subject of kneading:
As oxygen from the air and oxidizing compounds from the yeasts enter the dough, the gluten molecules begin to bond end-to-end and form long chains. An excess of [exposure to air and oxygen] bleaches the remaining wheat pigments and alters the flavor.
So here's my theory: in order to get a ball of pizza dough to pass the windowpane test, it needs to be kneaded for a relatively long period of time. In a large-scale, New York pizza operation, dough is made in massive 30- to 40-pound batches. With such a large mass of dough, there's significantly less exposure to oxygen while the dough kneads, as only the dough on the very surface of a rather large ball is exposed, the rest being protected by the sides of the mixing bowl, and by the dough itself. With a small ball of dough in a home mixer, on the other hand, a much higher proportion of the dough is exposed to the flavor-altering effects of air as it mixes.
New York Style Pizza Authentic Recipe
McGee goes on to suggest that mixing doughs in a food processor might actually be a better method than the stand mixer, something counterintuitive to me, as the stand mixer seems to resemble the gentle action of hand-kneading far more accurately. The idea is that the rapidly rotating blade of a food processor will batter and realign the proteins in the flour much more efficiently than the slow-moving stand mixer. It should give you a windowpane-worthy dough in a fraction of the time. Less time kneading means less time oxidizing, and thus better flavor.
I was frankly shocked at how quickly the food processor dough came together. Within about 30 seconds, I had a dough that easily passed the windowpane test with a smooth, supple feel that you only get with many minutes of stand-mixer kneading
an autolyse period. I packed away my three 12-ounce balls of dough in the quart-sized deli containers I use for overnight proofs (I highly recommend them for this task!) and waited until the next day, where another surprise awaited me.
Ny Style Pepperoni Pizza Recipe By Evo20g
The fully-kneaded stand mixer version, as expected, rose quite well; it came up to the 3-cup mark on my container. The barely-kneaded stand mixer version rose significantly less; it only came up to around the 2
0 Response to "Pizza Recipe New York Style"
Posting Komentar