Inventor and guest writer Andris Lagsdin shares the story of how a realization at work led to Baking Steel pizza dough and one of the best pizza crusts you'll ever make.
A unique combination of interests and skills led to the birth of the Baking Steel. And, in my humble opinion, pizza is the better for it.
In my day job, I work for a family-owned manufacturing company, Stoughton Steel. But outside the office, I’m pretty passionate about food — pizza in particular.
Our Collection Of Recipes For Pizza Making, Fresh Breads, Pizza Dough And More.
My thoughts are never far from creating the perfect crust. One day, I was browsing a volume from the book series Modernist Cuisine,
By Nathan Myhrvold. As fate would have it, Myhrvold stated that the best tool to use for making the perfect pizza crust would be a piece of steel.
And that, my friends, was my “AH-HA” moment! As soon as I could, I hustled out to our plant, found a piece of 1/4” high-quality steel, and brought it home for some testing.
How The Baking Steel Will Help You Make Better Homemade Pizza
According to Myhrvold, steel is better at conducting heat than a brick oven’s stone. Because of that conductivity, pizza crust cooks faster and more evenly at a lower temperature, resulting in a beautiful, thin, crispy crust.
Here’s the scoop. We know from seventh-grade science class that steel is a great conductor. What I’ve since learned is that it stores more than 18 times the amount of energy — heat — than stone can store. The steel then transfers that heat so quickly that pizza can be fully baked in a home oven in about 5 minutes — less than half the time of a traditional pizza stone.
I’d spent plenty of time over the years with countless pans, pizza stones, gadgets, and gear trying to perfect my pizzas in a home oven. Who knew the solution had been waiting for me all along in a pile of steel over at the shop — and some insight from Modernist Cuisine? Talk about serendipity!
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I’m lucky to be living out my dream of combining two great interests — pizza and steel — into one amazing product, the Baking Steel.
Most artisan pizza dough rests 24 hours or less before you shape and bake it. But we’re going to make a simple adjustment to the typical no-knead recipe that will change your home pizza game forever.
Why is this extended rest important? The process, called slow fermentation, is a favorite of baking professionals and experienced pizza makers. By slowing down the dough’s rise, it has time to develop wonderfully rich, complex flavor.
Basic Ny Pizza Dough From Se, Cooked On A Baking Steel. It Was Perfect.
Do this test: Make a batch of dough, and divide it into seven pieces (as directed in the recipe below). Bake one crust after the initial 24-hour rest; then another at 48 hours, a third at 72 hours, etc. It’s a fun test and you’ll get to eat lots of pizza! The results should speak for themselves — you’ll notice a marked difference in flavor between the 24-hour crust and successive crusts.
By the way, don’t let the recipe name intimidate you. The hands-on time for this 72-hour dough is just 15 minutes — and that includes cleanup!
Knead the resulting dough for 2 to 3 minutes. The idea is to work the dough by hand until no dry patches remain. Knead until the dough forms a fairly tight ball.
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Let the dough rest and rise for 24 hours at room temperature. This process, called bulk fermentation, enables the dough to more than double in size and become very aromatic in a clean, alcohol sort of way. This 24-hour rest also yields wonderful flavor in your crust.
Working with one piece of dough at a time, fold two of its sides into the center. Rotate the dough 90 degrees and fold the sides into the center again. Repeat this process until you’ve formed a smooth ball. Place the ball, smooth side down, in your palm, and firmly pinch the bottom seam closed. If your hands feel too sticky at any time, dip your fingers in flour.
Place each piece of dough into a heavily oiled 1-pint lidded plastic container. Date the containers, and refrigerate for at least 48 hours. Each container of dough will make one 12” pizza crust.
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When you’re ready to begin your pizza, remove as many pieces of dough from the fridge as you need at least 1 hour before shaping. Any dough you don’t want to shape immediately can be frozen in its plastic container for up to 3 months, if desired.
Baker's tip: How long can you store your dough in the refrigerator? I find the dough has a “strike zone” for ideal use between days 3 and 5 (counting the day it’s made as day 1). After day 5, the dough will start to break down some, making it a little more difficult to stretch. But the flavor remains outstanding right through day 10. Dough that’s nine or 10 days old will be quite “brittle” and hard to shape, so use it for rolls, short bread sticks, or other breads that don’t require a lot of stretching.
Your first step is preheating your oven at 500°F for a good hour, with the Baking Steel on the top rack, about 7” from the broiler.
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Stretch or roll your pizza dough into a 12” round, and place it on a pizza peel (or the back of a baking sheet, if you don’t have a peel).
After 2 minutes, rotate the pizza 180 degrees (front to back, back to front). Switch the oven back to bake mode, 500°F. Bake for 2 more minutes, until the crust is as dark as you like.
Want to bake your own professional-style pizza at home? Check out the Baking Steel; and try Andris' recipe above, or our recipe for Artisan No-Knead Pizza Crust.
Baking Steel Review
PJ Hamel grew up in New England, graduated from Brown University, and was an award-winning Maine journalist (favorite topics: sports and food) before joining King Arthur Flour in 1990. Hired to write the newly launched Baker’s Catalogue, PJ became the small but growing company’s sixth employee. ...Kenji is the former culinary director for Serious Eats and a current culinary consultant for the site. He is also a New York Times food columnist and the author of The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science.
After baking a bunch of pizzas, we fell in love with the Baking Steel. It ensures a perfect pizza crust every time.
I came out with the early word on Baking Steel, a product which at the time was in Kickstarter mode trying to raise enough money for its first run. Thanks to pizza heads like you, they managed to blow past their initial investment requirements by several thousand dollars. By all accounts, founder Andris Lagsdin was in over his head trying to keep up with demand on that first run. This is good news for him, and even better news for home piemakers, because I've got to tell you: This is the most impressive home pizza product I've ever tested.
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I've been making the finest indoor-oven pies I've ever made since I got the Baking Steel. Better than what I can get with my inch-thick stone. More consistent than what I get from my skillet-broiler method (my previous go-to). And of course, easier than setting up the also-awesome KettlePizza insert on my outdoor grill.
By all accounts, this is the answer I've been waiting for to produce consistently awesome pizza over and over, straight out of the box.
The folks over on the pizzamaking.com forum have been talking about using steel plates to bake pizza for a number of years, but the concept really hit the big time when Nathan Myhyrvold recommended it in his uber-cookbook Modernist Cuisine. After seeing a demo of the process, Andris Lagsdin, a former employee at Todd English's Figs chain of pizzerias realized,
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. Thus was born the Baking Steel, a 1/4-inch, 15-pound plate of food-grade steel designed to be used in your oven as a replacement for a traditional pizza stone.
On paper, the idea makes sense. Metal conducts heat better than stone and it stores more heat per unit volume than stone—both key characteristics to creating a pizza that cooks up both light and crisp with the characteristic hole structure and char that you look for in a good Neapolitan or New York-style pie.
To test out the Baking Steel, I made over a dozen pies, as well as various recipes, and in every single case, it produced results superior to anything I've ever been able to make with a standard stone. Here are a few highlights:
Our Collection Of Recipes For Pizza Making, Fresh Breads, Pizza Dough And More
To start with, I made two New York-style pies baking them exactly as the instructions on the Baking Steel recommend—the steel in the bottom of the oven, the oven on full blast for 45 minutes. My basic New York Style Pizza recipe gets baked on a stone in a 500°F oven, which results in a bake time of around 12 to 15 minutes.
With a stone, if I crank my oven up to 550°F (not possible for all home cooks, hence the 500°F temperature in the recipe), I can bake a pie in about 7 or
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