Baker’s tip: Since publishing this post in 2015, we’ve introduced our '00' Pizza Flour, designed specifically to produce classic Neapolitan-style pizza in a home oven. Make our Neapolitan-Style Pizza Crust for authentic taste and texture, and if you don’t have '00' Pizza Flour on hand, this Artisan No-Knead Pizza Crust is still a great option.
I remember when my boyfriend, Jeremy, and I got serious about making the perfect pizza at home. We'd just left LA, and more than the weather, more than sushi, possibly even more than our friends (sorry, guys), we missed our local pizza haunts.
In LA, good pizza was never far, so the motivation to try (and perfect) our own recipe was wholly unnecessary. When we decided to move to the New England woods (far from the reach of delivery) we knew we'd have to find a way to keep great pizza in our lives.
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For nearly a year we searched high and low for the right recipe and technique, trying everything from complicated processes to simple; and sampling more kinds of flour than we previously knew existed. (For the record, King Arthur Flour's Unbleached All-Purpose Flour was, and probably always will be, our favorite go-to for its quality, versatility, and ease of use.)
About Jim Lahey's no-knead bread. The process seemed too simple, but to our surprise it rendered beautiful, open-crumbed loaves, with crackly crusts and tender, chewy interiors.
Our eyes were suddenly opened to a way of developing gluten we hadn't previously considered. We decided to give Lahey's no-knead pizza method a shot, and in that first bite, found the slice of pizza heaven we'd been looking for.
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These Neapolitan-style pizzas are reminiscent of the artisan wood-fired pies that were all the rage when we were leaving LA. The pizza is light but not flat; substantial but far from bready, with a light and pillowy crust that's equal parts chewy gluten and air. In short, it's pizza perfection.
This pizza does require a little forethought, needing 24 hours (18 in a warm room) to rise. It also requires a little bit of practice to perfect, but don't let that stop you! The dough can be made up to a week in advance, and takes less than 5 minutes to pull together – no kneading required.
We've modified Jim Lahey's recipe by halving it (making two pizzas instead of four), and by adding sugar and a bit more water, which for us proved the key to pizza with a tender and light crust, crispy bottom, and the perfect amount of chew. The fun of this recipe is that it leaves plenty of room for experimentation and modification.
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We've fallen deeply in love with our pizza steel, which renders professional pizza-oven quality crusts, without the fuss of actually building a stone oven in your backyard. I highly recommend investing in one, if you're serious about baking pizza at home. A stone will work for half the price; but trust me when I say the steel is worth the extra cash. It radiates more heat than the stone, producing breads and pizzas with professional oven-quality lift.
This recipe is measured in grams, so a kitchen scale is helpful. I've added cup measurements for convenience, but the truth is grams don't convert neatly into cups – for best results, measure by weight.
Depending on the season, you may need a little more or a little less water – use the photos as your guide until you get a feel for how the dough should behave.
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*This recipe was originally developed using All-Purpose Flour, but our test kitchen has come to also love the chewier version of the crust when made with Bread Flour. Choose whichever flour you have on hand.
Place your oven rack on the center rung, and preheat the oven to 550°F with the baking steel or stone inside. The position of the rack inside the oven is especially important, particularly if you're using parchment paper – too close to the broiler (you need at least 8 clearance) and the top of your pizza (and the parchment) will burn before the bottom has had time to cook through.
You'll want to allow the oven to sit at temperature for 30 minutes before baking your pizza, in order for the steel or stone to fully preheat. We find that if you turn on the oven right before you do the stretch-and-fold with the dough, it's ready at about the same time your pizza is ready to go in.
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Use a bowl scraper to transfer the dough onto a well-floured surface – this inexpensive item makes it the ideal tool for working with a dough this wet. Make sure you use enough flour to keep things from sticking.
Holding onto the dough at two ends, pull one end away from the other, then fold it back onto itself. Repeat on the other side. As the photos show, the dough will likely be sticky – don't worry about it looking neat as you fold. Be sure to keep your hands floured as you work.
Repeat this process for the other side of the dough, so that all four corners of the dough have been stretched and folded.
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Gently pull the ends towards the middle of the dough, then turn it over. Using your fingers, pull the dough under itself until the top is smooth, and the seams have been worked into the bottom of the dough.
Cover the bowl and allow the dough to proof (rise) for 45 minutes to an hour, while your oven preheats. In the colder months, place the bowls on the stove top to stay warm.
*If you're using a metal peel, or if this is your first attempt at homemade pizza, place a piece of parchment on your peel instead of using flour. Releasing the dough from a wooden board (even a generously floured one) takes some practice, and is even more difficult using a metal peel. Parchment is easier to use while you perfect your dough, and renders equally delicious crusts. Trim the parchment after you've stretched your dough onto it, so that it's flush with the remaining dough. Parchment paper is often rated below 500°F, so at 550°F the edges will char. We've never had any trouble with parchment catching fire when baking on the center oven rack, but be sure to keep a close eye on pizzas being cooked on parchment, just to be safe.
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Scoop the proofed (risen) dough onto your well-floured surface, using care to pool the dough in as round a shape as possible for easier stretching.
If your dough feels wet, use a generous dusting of flour on top. For a drier dough, use slightly less flour. Getting the exact amounts down requires some practice, but use these photos as a guide as you get started – for reference, this was a very wet dough.
Using your fingertips, gently depress the dough, being careful to not touch the outer edge of the crust. This step is important – leaving the circumference untouched at this stage will result in a beautiful bubbly outer crust, post-bake.
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Again, using care to not touch the outermost edge of the crust, lift the pizza from the board and use your knuckles to gently stretch the dough. If the dough is at all sticky, use more flour.
Use two hands at once to gently move the dough in a circle, allowing gravity to perform the stretch. Gravity is your friend! Let it do most of the work for you, as pulling will stretch the center more than the edges.
If you find your dough is difficult to stretch, set it down on a floured surface for 5 to 10 minutes to allow the gluten to relax.
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Use the existing flour on the board to keep your dough from becoming sticky. Flour is your friend in this recipe! Don't be afraid to use it, as a sticky dough is an unworkable dough.
Move to your well-floured peel (or sheet of parchment) and adjust the dough to fit the surface. Remember – if the dough is sticky when you put it on the peel, it will stick to the peel! Make sure it's well-floured.
If using parchment, trim the excess around the dough to prevent it from burning. We generally leave an inch around the dough, but to be safe we recommend trimming the paper flush with the dough.
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Lightly sauce the dough. We use regular pasta sauce, homemade or from a jar. Just make sure it's not too watery; simmer watery sauce until the above consistency is reached. Depending on the toppings, pesto or béchamel (recipe below) can be used as well.
NOTE: if using a wooden peel with flour, be sure to apply your toppings quickly. The longer the dough sits on the peel, the more difficult it will become to release.
Top with the cheese of your choice; above is shredded smoked mozzarella. Wetter cheeses (such as fresh mozzarella) should be used more sparingly.
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Turn on the broiler in your preheated oven, and transfer the pie to your preheated steel or stone. If you don't have a top broiler*, don't sweat it! You may need to bake your pie for
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